I was delighted to have the opportunity to be back in Paris recently and, knowing I was going to be staying in Pigalle, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to test the brunch at the oft-recommended Rose Bakery.
The building itself is unassuming: whitewashed walls with low ceilings, heavy-duty tables, fresh produce piled in grocery crates against the counter with an array of sweet and savoury items neatly displayed behind the glass. It’s a practical sort of place: unpretentious, and wholeheartedly focused on delivering good organic food.
My brunch companion, I., had visited previously and been particularly enthusiastic about their scones and carrot cake, but the second I saw the menu I only had one thing on my mind: kedgeree.
For those who are unfamiliar with kedgeree, it’s a gorgeous silky mix of curried rice, eggs and smoked fish; a dish I love, but haven’t had in years, and which works excellently on a brunch menu.
I first encountered kedgeree a long time ago in a friend’s family kitchen, where it was a firm family favourite and one of his father’s signature recipes. I was somewhat bemused to later discover its origins as a breakfast hybrid from colonial-era India, given that up until that point, at least in our household, on the rare occasions that fish had been served it had always been as part of a lunch or evening meal.
The Rose Bakery’s version was made with camargue rice and haddock, topped with a poached egg – a variation which I thoroughly enjoyed and would highly recommend. The complementary flavours in the house-blend genmaicha and toasted rice tea also worked well as as an accompaniment.
As it was almost lunchtime when we arrived, my friend, I., selected an Israeli meatball dish, which was beautifully lifted by a refreshing salsa that served to punctuate the creamier hummus and babaganoush and lightened the heavier textures in the dish. All-in-all, it was a perfect leisurely start to a rainy Parisien Sunday and excellent fuel to carry us through the rest of the day.
– Closest Metro: Saint-Georges (line 12)
– Service style: Table
– Cards accepted
– It’s a deservedly popular spot and quickly becomes crowded close to midday, so a mid-morning arrival is advised for brunch.